At around 70 by 40 km, Jeju island is a sizable but compact island. Still, it is often large and overwhelming enough for visitors and those without a vehicle to miss out on some of the most interesting facets of the island.
Today on Journey Jeju we are traveling west to explore some well known and some more hidden wonders out West. We will start from Jungmun Beach and head out from there.
The secret beach, waterfall, and caves of old Olle 8
Being a well known and easily accessible tourist spot, Jungmun Beach seemed the perfect starting point for today's adventure. If you walk along the beach you will eventually get to the stairs that go up to the Hyatt Hotel.
Walk along the boardwalk and enjoy the strange and varied art. If you are a fan of K-dramas you can also catch a glimpse of the Chapel from Boys over Flowers.
Continue until you get to the olle 8 detour sign. This area used to be the old Olle 8 trail. The official trail has be rerouted, but this one is still well trodden by by locals, fishermen, haenyo, and hikers on a daily basis. Still, caution of loose rocks and waves should be taken.
After descending the stairs you will find a secret beach. At times this place can be littered with sea junk, which is a real shame for such a lovely beach. However, some of the maritime relics can be quite interesting (buoys, bottles from china, even mannequins). Please help out by collecting even a small bag of trash, every little bit counts. From the stairs turn around and you can check out the waterfall just a short ways behind.
Follow the beach until the sand ends and stone boulders appear. Large waves or high tide could potentially make this portion dangerous. Use caution on the rocks and assess the situation. On most days this area is fine for those who are fit and used to scrambling over rocks.
Along the worn Marine Corps Path you have a great opportunity enoy the towering columnar basalt pillars up close.
Deuleong Gwoe Cave 들렁궤
After a some time you will come upon a large cave. Deuleong Gwoe is a good spot to get some shade while enjoying the beauty of the volcanic rock and interesting patterns upon the cave's ceiling.
Continuing a short ways further will get you to solid ground and a paved road. Following the coastal road 1km will take us to a great local swimming hole.
Non Jit Mul
This icy spring fed swimming hole is a great spot to stop after that exhausting boulder scramble. In the summer it is very popular with locals. If you need a snack or beverage there is a convenience store nearby at the parking lot.
From Non Jit Mul keep following Olle 8. Many say this is some of the loveliest coastline in Jeju. After another 2~3km you should be in Daepyeong.
Daepyeong
Daepyeong is a quite town nestled between large majestic cliffs and a towering oreum. It's one of my favorite places to watch Haenyo and stroll through the village streets. Even with some new chic cafes and restaurants it still seems far removed from the typical tourist trail. There are still many farms and old buildings from Jeju's past. Pictured above is a Haenyo house and cafe right along the Olle trail. If you have time, walk around and explore or grab a bite to eat.
Olle 8 ends here so you can catch a bus back home or keep exploring.
Bonus: Gunsan
Gunsan (pronounced: goonsan) is the large mountainous oreum that looms over the town of Daepyeong. Climbing to the top offers spectacular views and an impressive network of WWII-era Japanese caves that are free to explore. Long ago, the peak was once a place for ritual rain ceremonies.
If you are without some kind of transportation, Getting here is the difficult part. There are trails on the east and west sides. You could go up one side and down the other if you are an avid hiker.
(If you have personal transportation) The western trail is actually a road that pretty much goes straight to the top. Hikers may be able to hitch a ride from Daepyeong at least to the bottom of the road. On google maps the road is non-existent, but Daum maps shows otherwise. See below.
(If taking a bus)
The eastern trailhead has a bus stop about 1km away (orange dot below). Follow the road south at the intersection and take the fork right until you arrive at the entrance. Signs that say 군산 should be fairly easy to spot.
The two stony peaks both offer great views of Hallasan, countless oreums, islands, beaches, and towns. Aegi Obeun Dol is said to have been a father carrying a baby on its back when they were struck by lightning.
Remember to bring a good flashlight for the Japanese tunnels as the ones provided are often dead. These caves are not for the squeamish; Lots of crickets crawl and drop from the ceiling and it is not uncommon to run across bats. A hooded jacket should provide ample cover from any creepy crawlies.
Some of the caves are very short, bit if I recall correctly. 8 was eerily extensive.
Andeok Valley 안덕 계곡
This valley is another great spot in this area. The 100 bus from Daepyeong or the 702 bus from Seogwipo can take you here. It's not the most popular spot, but busy crowds don't make for serene valleys anyway. Andeok Valley is especially nice after a good cleansing rain. Historically, this area was a famous spot of contemplation for the exiled master calligraphist and scholar Chusa. For this reason, Andeok valley offers three "paths of contemplation" in honor of the exiled scholar.
On top of (or should I say below?) these trails, the valley also offers a more primitive path, requiring one to jump over rocks or wade through shallow water to explore the diverse and lush haven for birds, flora, and other fauna. Here you can also find primitive cave dwelling of prehistoric settlers.
Andeok has been named the most beautiful valley in Jeju, and for good reason. Given the countless kilometers of nearly unknown and inaccessible valleys in Jeju, I wonder if this is true. Even still, this serene haven offers a great place to commune with all nature has to offer.
Well that's it for today's journey. Join us in Part II as we continue west to Sanbangsan and beyond.
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AuthorTyler Smith has been a Jeju Resident since 2012. Archives
October 2016
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